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Remember that song "Can't touch this"? Well, I can't touch this
writeup. This is great! If you're interested in rolling your own chips,
you MUST check out this link. Props to Trax for this great writeup! See Thirdgen.org
Technical Document on EPROM programming OK, I don't sell EPROM programmers. I don't sell editing software. So why mention this? Because I see a lot of people asking, and not many people answering! Especially for 1993 F-body owners who have to program chips, who are unable to use the slick LT1_Edit software package and do flash uploads/downloads... I'm going to tell you some stuff that will make you happy that you have a 1993!!! As for reprogramming, let's start with the basics of what you *need*. 1) An EPROM Programmer Additionally, you need a scan tool for tuning. There are free ones out there that work with my cable, or there are other commercial packages available (like Diacom). Links to a lot of different diagnostic scanning software packages are found to the left. I recommend Datamaster. ;) As for turnkey editing software, I recommend Tunercat, found at http://www.tunercat.com/ - it's inexpensive (about $90), and as far as I know the only one available that comes packaged ready to go. Rumor has it that this once was or still is a professional level package. Tell TC you heard about it here! Tunercat's a really nice guy, and there is an email mailing list where people can ask questions. That is, unless you have a Sy/Ty. Then Promgrammer is your best bet. See that in the software downloads section at SyTy.org As for other EPROM editing software, there are a couple of free packages that are very good looking, so if you're starting with a car that is not covered by Tunercat, you might try one of these first. They will take some hunting for values to work, though. And an ECM test bench will probably help. Check out: Eric Aos' WINBIN at http://www.spiritone.com/~eoa/Cars/EFI/index.htm And the first package I used is PromEdit, found in the DIY-EFI.org FTP incoming directory - it's a DOS based program, keystrokes are a little confusing at first, but once you get in to it, it's rock and roll, baby! Now, one programmer that's popular is the popular Pocket Programmer from http://www.xtronics.com/ . It's very low cost ($130 programmer). It's not a fancy programmer, but it will work in the car. Don't bother trying to build your own programmer to save a few bucks - been there, done that, got the scrap electronics to prove it. It's worth it to just be done with it and get one of these instead of Mickey-Mousing with something that doesn't work... I am no longer recommening their emulator option, as I've heard mixed reviews, leaning towards the bad side, on it. If you want a programmer that's a little better quality, you might consider the Needham's EMP-10. I own one of these, it's of solid construction, and has proven to be extremely reliable. I've outgrown it, though, so am looking at "bigger" options (but the BP Micros are still to expensive!). ;) DigiKey.com sells them for $220 (that's list price). Xtronics also sells the UV Eraser for $55 that includes a timer so that you don't over bake your EPROM (thereby shortening its lifespan). That's about typical going price (not a screaming deal, but not a bad price), so I say get that one. Digikey carries this too. Mine died after only a few uses. :( But others have run them for a long time with success. It's called the Dataerase II. Now what do you do - you've got the programmer, you've got some form of software, and you've got this MEMCAL that won't fit in the programmer's ZIF socket? Do you need to remove the EPROM in order to reprogram it? NO. I buy two row headers from Digikey - with 28 pins (or whatever is appropriate for the EPROM). They have .25" legs on top and .82" legs on the bottom. I spread the bottom legs apart a little bit and they slip right in to the EPROM programmer's ZIF socket. The Digikey part number is S2082-14-ND. If you want to order a row while you order a cable, email me for a price (they're like $6 or so). You stick the MEMCAL on the .25" legs. Now you can read your EPROM! What about erasing the EPROM? Well, the UV Eraser has a sliding door with a little latch that
activates a switch. You have to jimmy something in to the switch to allow
the UV light to operate with the door still open. Once you've jimmied the
switch, you center the window of the EPROM over the UV tube (gotta remove
the MEMCAL sticker), slide the door as closed as you can get it against
the MEMCAL, and turn the sucker on. It took about 8 minutes for me to
erase a MEMCAL this way. Oh, and DON'T stare at the UV light. It's bad for
your eyes. ;) Always run a "verify device is erased" before
attempting to program.
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